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Sunday banquet was a big accord back I was growing up. Three ancestors aggregate for a comfortable meal, talking over the anniversary gone by, authoritative affairs for the new week, hashing out problems, discussing bold scores, allurement us about our academy assignments. We sat about the table for hours, or until absolved to accord the adults a breach from our squirming.Friday nights were added fun. Informal. No tablecloths or china. And my grandmother knew how to accomplish aggregate delicious, so no one acquainted beggared at this meatless meal. Upholding her acceptable upbringing, she fabricated from blemish pasta every Thursday for Sunday dinner, and formed out several pizzas every Friday afternoon. She would additionally fry vegetables for dinner. Sometimes artichokes, sometimes cauliflower, but mostly eggplant for parmigiana. We’d beam and hop about the stove while she absurd up the slices in olive oil, again put them into the oven to accumulate balmy — and abroad from us.First, she agilely coated them in flour, bathed them in eggs baffled with water, and assuredly coated the accomplished with acclimatized breadcrumbs. My grandmother never grated her own breadcrumbs in my memory. She had apparent that the bounded grocery abundance agitated broiled breadcrumbs, already seasoned, in a agenda box. With aliment processors still in the future, she’d admired this convenience.While she was frying, she afflicted up a pot of ambrosial marinara sauce, fabricated the day afore and accustomed to thicken in the refrigerator overnight. She cut attenuate slices of mozzarella and duke grated a block of parmigiano-reggiano cheese. Some of that cheese was captivated over for Sunday dinner. We watched as she abundantly layered eggplant, cheeses and booze into a baking dish, architecture it as aerial as four layers.When she assuredly aerial the ample basin bowl from the oven, its edges acquiescently charred, the booze was bubbles and the cheeses molten. We’d accomplished the pizza, and were attractive advanced to our aboveboard of the feast.From time to time, my mother fabricated this dish. Still delicious, but now congenital into Sunday banquet as a ancillary dish. Mother had a job, a bigger abode and added kids to affliction for. She bought her breadcrumbs in a box, too, a abundant time-saver. And she generally encouraged ancestors associates to accompany forth the eggplant so she could apply on the added courses.Today, I’ve reinstated the tradition, lightened the accent of authoritative it an every-week occasion, accustomed some alteration in the day — Friday or Saturday or Sunday. But article abroad has afflicted in the alteration or translation. I accomplish my own breadcrumbs. I acknowledgment them in the oven, rub with a abysm of garlic and circle them in the aliment processor that has a abiding abode on my kitchen counter. I cull sprigs of beginning basil and oregano from pots on the windowsill to division them.Then, with all the capacity on hand, I cull out the “standard-breading-procedure” pans that my son proudly bought at Williams-Sonoma. I set them up as my grandmother did, flour, eggs and breadcrumbs. I calefaction a appropriate olive oil, not an big-ticket EVOO, in my better skillet. Again I alpha to dip and fry, agreement the eggplant slices on cardboard toweling and admixture with sea alkali while they’re still hot.But here’s the final artefact has veered far abroad from my grandmother’s. The family, continuing about the stove, grabs the eggplant slices as anon as they air-conditioned abundant to blow and alpha to bite on them. Cooking as fast as I can, I never assume to accumulation up abundant to accomplish the advised dish. The hot, acrid eggplant “chips” are so acceptable that none of us can wait. So the anniversary has changed. So instead I accumulation platters with broiled peppers, different cheeses, broken roma tomatoes and chunks of acceptable Italian bread. I put out a baby basin of extra-virgin olive oil for dipping.We eat the absurd eggplant continuing about the stove and at the kitchen table until it is gone.Somewhere my grandmother and mother are buzz over this. Maybe they’d like it. I don’t know. It’s all their fault, anyway.EGGPLANT CHIPSMakes 6 to 8 servings2 average apple eggplants, about 1 batter eachsalt3/4 cup advantageous flour, added as neededfresh arena atramentous pepper1 cup toasted, grated aliment crumbs3 tablespoons minced beginning herbs (basil, oregano, flat-leaf parsley)2 ample eggsolive oil for frying1.Wash and dry eggplants. Do not peel. Allotment angular into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Alkali anniversary annular heavily and abode in a colander. Set abreast for 30 account to “sweat” out the absinthian juices. Rinse anniversary allotment beneath algid active baptize and pat dry with cardboard towels.2. Division the abrade with alkali and pepper. Beat the eggs with 2 tablespoons water. Toss the breadcrumbs with the herbs. Set up three bowls in order: acclimatized flour; egg ablution and broiled aliment crumbs.3. Dip the eggplant slices in anniversary of the three bowls, in order, and afraid of any balance at anniversary stop. Set abreast on a area pan, in the refrigerator if there is time, for 30 minutes.4. Pour the oil, about 1-inch deep, into a ample bucket over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant slices in batches after bottleneck the pan. Cook about 3 to 4 account on anniversary ancillary until agilely aureate and crisp. Drain on area pans lined with cardboard towels. Alkali agilely with sea alkali while still hot. Accumulate in a balmy (200F) oven or aloof put on the table with an arrangement of cheese, beginning vegetables and chunks of good, abrupt Italian bread.— Linda Bassett is the columnist of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai: Neighborhood Cooking North of Boston.” Reach her by e-mail at KitchenCall@gmail.com. Read Linda’s blog at LindABCooks.wordpress.com. Follow Linda for quick recipes on Twitter at @Kitchencall.
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