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Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam — GOOD morning, Saigon: Another arcade day is breaking on the wide, tree-lined boulevards of the city’s axial business district. Proprietors are across-the-board sidewalks, saleswomen are rearranging displays, tourists are afloat out of their hotels in chase of bargains.

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They won’t accept abundant agitation award them. Hong Kong and Tokyo may be the hot spots in Asia for high-end shopping, but Ho Chi Minh Burghal — which best bodies actuality still alarm Saigon — is a low-end shopper’s fantasy.

With tourism flourishing, shops and boutiques are arising up and alms artist abrasion and artwork at a atom of what they amount in the West. The best buys: clothing, abnormally custom-tailored apparel ($100 to $200) and cottony fashions (a woman’s raw-silk anorak and skirt, $55); additionally ceramics, indigenous fabrics and lacquerware.

More than 30 years afterwards the abatement of Saigon and the end of the Vietnam War, the nation is on the rise. In the aftermost decade, the abridgement has mushroomed, growing an boilerplate of 7.4% annually, additional to China.

And arch the chase is Ho Chi Minh City, billowing with added than 7 actor association in its burghal breadth and 4 actor motorbikes. The bartering basic of the nation is additionally Vietnam’s best crawling city, arranged with adolescent adults who came from the countryside adorable for work. They can apprehend to acquire an boilerplate anniversary assets of $1,800; abroad in the nation, it’s beneath than $700.

Ho Chi Minh City, already alleged the Paris of the East, has acquired back the war, which association alarm the American War. The burghal is noisy, awash and lively. Shady boulevards still adroitness the downtown, but there’s a affectionate of anarchic activity that’s at its best agitated akin during blitz hour, back the drove of motorbikes and the honking of horns is about overwhelming.

The burghal draws best of the tourists who appointment Vietnam, which has meant continuing advance in facilities. In the ’90s, clean, able hotels were difficult to find. Now all-embracing brands are staking out prime absolute estate.

The Esplanade Hyatt Saigon Hotel, which opened in July 2005, added high-end affluence burghal and abutting several added mid- and upper-range hotels. Restaurants abide to develop, featuring Vietnamese or Western cuisine. Best accept English-language menus.

And again there’s the shopping. Low activity costs accept fabricated prices adorable to Westerners; Vietnam’s beginning appearance industry has fabricated the commodity interesting.

“In the past, bounded designers focused on acceptable styles, such as the ao dai, or continued dress, and relied heavily on locally fabricated bolt like cottony and taffeta,” said Luong The Phuc, editor of Heritage Fashion, the in-flight annual for Vietnam Airlines. “Today’s adolescent designers are bond Western and Asian styles and arena with abnormal fabrics.”

Many of the artist shops are on Dong Khoi, the artery that originally aggressive the city’s appellation as the Paris of the East. Trees and colonial-era barrio abut it, forth with active boutiques and galleries.

And for bargain shoppers, there’s hyperactive Cholon “Big Market,” in the Chinese district, area you can get about annihilation at a discount. Cholon’s broad Binh Tay Bazaar is a bright bewilderment of walkways and stalls area you can acquisition abundance of affable utensils, produce, spices and clothing, alike ducks apprenticed for the banquet table.

At the centermost of the bazaar is a baby altar area sticks of aroma burn. “Sellers appear actuality back the day isn’t activity well,” a adviser said. “They adjure for bigger luck.”

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The markets Ben Thanh: Best tourists appointment this crowded, active calm bazaar in burghal Saigon, area you can acquisition bargain T-shirts, cottony scarves, postcards, sunglasses and added items. But the acquaintance isn’t consistently a acceptable one. The vendors bark consistently to allure buyers’ attention; meanwhile, pickpockets are alive the crowd. And if you aren’t a aciculate bargainer, you’ll apparently pay too much. Accouterment and knock-off items can be activate in the front, abreast the entrance. At the rear are baby aliment stands.

When you’re through, booty a airing up Le Loi artery against Dong Khoi; you’ll acquisition shops alms items agnate to those in the bazaar with abundant beneath fanfare. (Le Loi at Ham Nghi, Commune 1.)

Binh Tay: Binh Tay is at the affection of the Cholon Chinese district. Architecturally, it is a Chinese bout de force, with a admirable alarm belfry in the center. Bargains are added acceptable to be activate at this calm broad bazaar than at the touristy Ben Thanh market, and the atmosphere, abrasive but real, is enjoyable. (Hua Giang Boulevard, Commune 6.)

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Department food Tax Department Store: Check the prices actuality for lacquerware, souvenirs, T-shirts and cottony scarves afore you buy elsewhere. This multistory architecture is abounding with touristy stalls that generally accept fair prices. (Corner of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue.)

Saigon Duty-Free Shop: This abundance carries artist brands, which are hardly apparent abroad in the city. Prices don’t assume to alter abundant from those in the U.S. (102 Nguyen Hue, about the bend from the Rex Hotel.)

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Clothing Note: to alarm any of these numbers from the U.S., punch 011 (international calling code) and 84 (country cipher for Vietnam) and 8 (city cipher for Ho Chi Minh City) additional the number.

Minh hanh: One-of-a-kind artist fashions at bargain prices. One velvet, hand-embroidered, lined anorak amount about $100. The abundance additionally stocks elaborately advised hats, scarves and dresses. (24 Dong Khoi, 824-5774, and 146AB Pasteur, 823-5367.)

Minh Khoa: Acceptable cottony Vietnamese accouterment in adapted styles. (48 Nguyen Hue St. , 829-8934.)

Khai Silks: Perhaps the best-known bazaar in Saigon. Beautiful cottony blouses (about $45), robes, accouterment for men and women, additionally linens (raw-silk tablecloth with napkins $88). This is artist Hoang Khai’s flagship store, but there are several locations, including one in Hanoi. (107 Dong Khoi St.; 829-1146, http://www.khaisilkcorp.com.)

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Indochina Boutique: Scarves, blouses, ao dais. Commodity isn’t as cautiously fabricated as at some added stores, but prices are low. (139 Dong Khoi St.; 822-4971.)

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Décor SaiGon Crafts: Dishes and lacquerware boxes, additional added adorning items in the affection of the exceptional arcade district. (74 Dong Khoi St.; 822-2465, http://www.saigoncrafts.com .)

Tara & Kys Art Gallery: Whimsical drawings, cards and added artwork of Vietnam’s artery scenes starting at $1. (101 Dong Khoi; 823-8149, http://www.tarakys.com.)

Authentique Interiors: Lamps, housewares, adorning items. (6 Dong Khoi; 823-8811.)

[email protected] *

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

Bargain country

GETTING THERE:

From LAX to Ho Chi Minh City, abutting account (change of plane) is accessible on ANA, Asiana, Cathay Pacific, JAL, Korean, Malaysia, Singapore, Thai and United. Restricted round-trip fares activate at $1,149.

TELEPHONES:

To alarm the numbers beneath from the United States, punch 011 (the all-embracing dialing code), 84 (the country cipher for Vietnam), 8 (city cipher for Ho Chi Minh City) and the bounded number.

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WHERE TO STAY:

Park Hyatt Saigon Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Commune 1; 824-1234, http://www.saigon.park.hyatt.com . Adorable burghal hotel, well-located and alms abounding amenities. Doubles from $171.

Saigon Auberge and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi St., Commune 1; 827-2828, http://www.starwoodhotels.com . This accurately appointed Sheraton in the arch arcade commune is abutting to burghal attractions. Doubles from $215.

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St., Commune 1; 822-0033, http://www.renaissancehotels.com/sgnbr . Abundant angle of the Saigon River from this burghal hotel. Rooftop pool. Doubles from $135.

WHERE TO EAT:

Mandarin Restaurant, 11A Ngo Van Nam St., Commune 1; 822-9783. Excellent Vietnamese cuisine and alert account at this admirable two-story restaurant. Booty a cab; it’s account it. Five-course banquet $19.

Pho 2000, 01 Phan Chu Trinh, Commune 1; 822-2788, or 26A Le Tahnh Ton, Commune 1; 829-2612. This fast-food-style brainstorm collective has some acclaimed fans, amid them above President Clinton. Under $3.

Givral, 5666 Nguyen Hue St., Commune 1; 824-4235 Popular French brasserie in the centermost of burghal serves pastries, burgers, sandwiches. Under $7.

TO LEARN MORE:

Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, 80 Quan Su, Hanoi; 942-3998, http://www.vietnamtourism.com .

— Rosemary McClure

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