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Minton’s Avoid Hash. (Photo: Minton’s)

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The line, somewhat unexpectedly, ran bottomward West 118th Street. It was ‘round midnight at Minton’s, area icons like Dizzy Gillespie and Thelonious Monk entertained the glossy and in-the-know from 1938 into the ’60s. A blaze in the architecture bankrupt the club in the aboriginal ’70s. Its best contempo awakening in 2013 by Richard Parsons, aloft administrator and CEO of Time Warner, and chef-restaurateur Alexander Smalls draws ceaseless crowds for its acclaimed musicians and the kitchen it shares with one of the city’s hottest dining destinations: The Cecil, but never in the after-hours tradition. Until now.

The lure? Breakfast. Of the ham-and-sunnyside-up-egg-with-fig-jelly-on-a-biscuit variety. In added words: carbohydrate and nostalgia-rich, American-style comfort.

“If you anticipate about the best breakfast you anytime had it was apparently a holiday, event, or pancakes-every-morning vacation,” said Nicole Avena, Ph.D., a neuroscientist at Mount Sinai who studies the attitude of how aliment affects the brain. “It resonates. You body an association, the amusement of the experience. You appetite to appoint in that again.”

The breakfast-anytime-of-day appetite is abundantly subconscious, aloof like the accompanying allure to carbs. A account of which is a concise billow of activity (thank you, sugar). Of advance that leads to a crash, which can advance to a aeon of overeating, but this is a blessed story. “It’s not adverse to acting a [non-breakfast-time] meal for breakfast,” said Dr. Avenea. In fact, she and her bedmate afresh enjoyed breakfast for dinner. 

Down in Tribeca, Bubby’s has served midnight brunch aback 2009. That’s 11 p.m. to 7 a.m. Thursdays to Saturdays, and there’s consistently a buzzing, aged scene. Chef-owner Ron Silver occasionally stops by at 3 or 4 a.m. “It reminds me of some affected after-place,” he said. “A easygoing alliance for the late-night industries, restaurants, Broadway, big guys in hip-hop.”

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Mr. Silver expects the restaurant’s High Bandage area to action the aforementioned in the advancing months, until 2 a.m. “It’s a actual American thing, this affectionate of breakfast,” he said, apropos to acceptable plates of eggs and meat and home fries. “It’s actually congenital into the landscape, the way America was acclimatized and built. Up-and-at-‘em. That’s what breakfast is.” (See: billow of energy, above).

Black Seed’s Pizza Bagel. (Photo: ?)

And any time of day can be breakfast time.

In September, year-old Nolita bagel angel Black Seed started aperture 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. Thursdays to Saturdays to advertise the ultimate breakfast-non-breakfast hybrid: Pizza Bagels. Pick a admired bagel (they acclaim adjoin accomplished grain) again accept cheese ($6), or pepperoni ($6.75). It’s a way to use day-olds, brought aback to activity by the damp of the sauce, said arch chef Dianna Daoheung (bagel compound = hers). This sustainability attracts bounded restaurant agents and foodie bar patrons, and absolutely hops about 1 a.m. aback industry association get out. 

“Breakfast as a class has changed,” said Sarah Schneider, buyer of appropriately contemporary Egg Shop, area the breakfast brilliant is allotment of every dish. “You can be indulgent or healthy, archetypal or creative.” The Spandex (poached eggs, miso quinoa, avocado, pickled carrot, acreage greens, tamari) for $15, ties with the B.E.C. (a runny, bacon, cheddar, amazon jam, pickled jalapeno panini), for $9, for best ordered item.

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“As we move advanced in time and activity we appetite to be young, we appetite to feel young,” said Egg Shop chef-partner Nick Korbee, who equates breakfast with all things adolescence memories, including the American parenting mantra “breakfast is the best important meal of the day.” Anticipating the city’s allure to amaranthine breakfast, the restaurant has served from 8 a.m. to midnight (1 a.m. on weekends) aback it opened aftermost August.

Egg Shop. (Photo: The New York Observer/Arman Dzidzovic)

And indies aren’t the alone ones acquainted of the draw. Perhaps accretion to a civic rollout, McDonald’s will alpha testing Breakfast All Day at some San Diego locations this month. “We apperceive our barter adulation McDonald’s breakfast and they acquaint us they’d like to adore it aloft the morning hours,” said Terri Hickey, a backer for the company. “We attending advanced to acquirements from this test, and it’s abortive to brainstorm on any outcomes.”

Note: Admitting in demand, breakfast all day is a claiming for any restaurant, alike ample ones. A McDonald’s website FAQ, “Why don’t you serve breakfast all day?” is responded to like this: “[kitchen grills] artlessly don’t accept the allowance for all of our card options at one time.”

So while you will acquisition a breakfast-like bowl on abounding a non-breakfast menu, you will not acquisition an balance of choice. Sometimes bodies appetite non-breakfast foods, too. Hence brunch, and the McDonald’s Afterwards Midnight card with breakfast and banquet items offered midnight to 4 a.m.

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Which brings us aback to Harlem area the history of “too backward for banquet too aboriginal for breakfast” runs deep. It was Wells Supper Club, accessible from 1938 to 1982, that affected craven and waffles, blockage accessible backward to board bandage associates (see: backward night industries, above) and others.

An Egg Shop dish. (Photo: The New York Observer/Arman Dzidzovic)

Mr. Smalls of Minton’s said a late-night affairs was consistently a thought, aback the club was accepted for its late-night jam sessions. “The abode packed; it’s so sexy,” he said. But arranged with “rogue musicians” cat-and-mouse to comedy on a allegorical date (read: craving artists) isn’t a abundant business plan. So the abstraction was addled to accomplish aliment the star. “People will appear for food, abnormally acceptable food.”

Mr. Smalls collaborated with chef de cuisine J.J. Johnson (who fabricated both Forbes and Zagat’s 2014 “30 Under 30” lists for his assignment at The Cecil) on a card of agreeable and breakfast-y items like the colossal agglomeration backtalk block with accolade assemble eggs ($23), and the delinquent hit avoid hash: brittle avoid and avoid confit, candied potato, onions, peppers, potato, cheddar, absurd egg ($18).

The apprehension for midnight breakfast’s March analysis drive was a array of avant-garde speakeasy through which Mr. Smalls would walk, endlessly by anniversary table to accent with the guests. The linen tablecloths and dress cipher of Minton’s—Dress Sharp Gents. No Hats. No Shorts. Collared Shirts and Jackets Highly Recommended—would allure an older, added chastened crowd, right? Alike if a alive bandage (the accepted here) was commissioned for a DJ.

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Instead, Mr. Smalls could hardly airing admitting the amplitude at all. Stylish, able urbanites in their 20s and 30s abounding Minton’s for two sold-out seatings (and some standing). The overflow went to The Cecil, bushing the absolute lounge and some of the dining room. The accession was so abundant they started demography anxiety anon for the abutting midnight breakfast, April 25, and are discussing authoritative it a account accident afterwards that.

“They came, they ate, they shake-shaked,” said Mr. Smalls. The best nights end in breakfast.

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