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A melting pot on Metro’s Red Line, Wheaton has Japanese, Thai, Italian, Korean and Salvadoran cuisines. But the Maryland burghal didn’t accept abundant Southern food, which is breadth Rock Creek Kitchen comes in: The down-home restaurant for abundance aliment favorites, like po’ boys and absurd catfish, opened in October a block from the Metro.

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“We anticipate that our little Wheaton exchange is attractive for value,” said buyer Tom Stanton, who additionally owns the Limerick Pub above the artery but has a day job as an attorney.

Rock Creek Kitchen is his additional attempt; his aboriginal go-round, a steakhouse in the aforementioned atom alleged Squire’s Rock Creek Chophouse, was accounted too expensive. A country-fried makeover ensued, bottomward the prime rib and the drupe martinis in favor of $7 baskets of calm puppies, and biscuits and gravy for $6.50. Rock Creek Kitchen can absolutely analysis the box on acceptable value: Annihilation on the card costs added than $17.50. And the portions are enormous, abiding to accommodate abounding assortment for cafeteria the abutting day. An adjustment of aliment pudding appeared to be an absolute loaf.

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The amount dip aside, we’ll see if the adjacency will booty to Rock Creek Kitchen, which could use an beverage of acidity and a little added style. Based on photos of the above steakhouse, not too abundant has afflicted above the bank adornment and the red-checkered tablecloths. The restaurant looks a little like the antechamber of a Hampton Inn, with all-encompassing baiter paintings on the craven walls. There’s a tiny bar in the front, with a big-screen TV and a few high-tops.

Many of the dishes we sampled could accept appear from anywhere. The mac and cheese is annihilation special, while the basin of craven and two huge, creamy dumplings is abnormally bland, admitting the card touting its “hen broth.” For the shrimp and grits, the closing basic comes in cakes the admeasurement of air hockey pucks, which denies diners the adventitious to let them sop up abundant gravy. At atomic the collards in that bowl were blue and rich.

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The card is based on 29-year-old chef John Arnold’s youth, which featured affluence of Carolina-style Southern aliment alike admitting he grew up in the Washington area. His afflatus comes from his godmother, who “had a lot of soul,” he said, abandoning afternoons of ancestors gatherings over absurd chicken. “She was consistently frying being and smacking your duke if you approved to get a taste.”

Arnold’s card includes best of the dishes you’d apprehend from a pan-Southern restaurant, including absurd chicken, country ham and Frogmore stew. (Pulled pork, clearly absent, is forthcoming, Arnold says.) Cocktails, which angular on tea and lemonade for their base, are on the candied side, and the abstract beers are all local, from Maryland breweries including Jailbreak and Oliver.

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Rock Creek Kitchen offers a bigger aftertaste of the South in its hospitality. Our server was absolutely cheerful. We could acquaint that the kitchen was understaffed and weren’t agitated that one access came out afterwards than the added — but she offered a chargeless ambrosia anyway. (We beneath and paid for ours.)

One bowl that hits the appropriate addendum is hoppin’ John. The beans and rice feel added like a ancillary than the appetizer they’re billed as, but they’re the best way to alpha your meal.

“Some bodies anticipate it’s [named after] me,” Arnold said, “and that’s the funniest affair ever.”

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Rock Creek Kitchen, 2405 Amount Avenue, Wheaton, Md. 301-933-8616. rockcreekkitchen.net. Appetizers, $5 to $13; entrees, $11 to $17.50.

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